Thursday March 7 Saigon

Today we start at the Ben Thanh Market.  Since we will be leaving tomorrow, we feel the need to get some more souvenirs and gifts for our families.  I am also looking for some food items to bring back. 

In the food section, we come across an interesting brand of coffee.  Not quite sure what it is, we don’t buy it.

Do weasels drink coffee?

After leaving the food area, we go to the jewelry section.  Ken and I both want to get some jade items for our children.  In the area where jade is sold, we observe a sign.  We’re not sure what it means, but think it must be to reassure shoppers. 

We believe it

I pick out a pair of jade earrings for my daughter Jessi.  After bargaining awhile, the merchant accepts my offer, saying I got a good deal because it is her first sale of the day.  I’m satisfied with the deal, but skeptical of her assessment of how great a deal it is.

Ken picks out some items, and starts to bargain.  In the past, he has given in much too soon, so I offer to be his closer.  I try to negotiate, but the merchant won’t budge.  She tells us since I got such a good deal, she can’t afford to be as generous with Ken.  He capitulates and makes the purchase.

As we exit the market, we notice a police motorcycle.  It has a sign in English indicating it is part of a tourist security unit. 

Special unit



The two policemen pose for us on their motorcycle.  We had noticed these police around the city, but were not aware of their role before now.  They must be doing a good job, as we have not had any problems.
 

On patrol

 

There is also a cyclo parked in front of the market.  When we lived in Saigon in the 60s, the cyclo was a major source of public transportation.  The passenger compartment is in front, with the driver pedaling the bicycle behind.  In a front end collision, the driver is protected.  This is not so good for the passengers.  Cyclos are now just used for tourists.

Cyclo



 

One of our major quests today is to find the Cercle Sportif.  When we lived in Saigon, this was the place where American dependants and other foreigners would go for tennis and swimming.  In the tropical climate, swimming was pretty much a daily activity, even during the rainy season.

We look up information about the Cercle Sportif online, and find the address for its current location.  When we arrive at what we believe is the correct address, we find a stagnant pool of water.  At first I believe this is the swimming pool of the Cercle Sportif, but Ken is skeptical.

 

Not the pool (fortunately)

This stagnant pool is in one of the many parks around the city.  This park also has a statue of a Vietnamese soldier from the war.  It appears to be a North Vietnamese soldier.

Statue in park



 

We continue walking until we find the real location of the Cercle Sportif.  It is now called the Worker’s Club.  That’s a good name for a pool and tennis club in a classless communist society.

We understand the complex fell into disrepair after the war, and was neglected for many years.  Now, the tennis courts are in really good shape.

Tennis courts at Worker's Club

 

As we approach the swimming pool area, we notice a sign reading Café Cercle.  At least some of the original name is being retained.  The Café Cercle is a dining area next to the pool.  We are there close to lunch hour, and there are several people dining at the café.

 

Poolside restaurant

 

A Vietnamese man coming from the pool volunteers information indicating the pool is over 100 years old.  We tell him we had been there many years ago, and ask him to take our picture, which he does. 

Ken (on right) and me in front of Worker's Club pool area

 

Up at the pool area, we are pleased to see it is in good condition.  The three level diving platform however does not appear any different than when we were there 48 years ago.

 Diving platform

There are not too many people actually swimming in the pool.  Earlier on our trip, in Vientiane, Laos, our guide had told us about a large swimming complex that was built there.  It ended up going out of business because Southeast Asians, just don’t go swimming for recreation.  This explanation appears to be borne out by the lack of activity in the pool. 

Full length view of the pool 

As we are leaving the Cercle Sportif, we see the old emblem for the club above a doorway. 

Cercle Sportif emblem



After the visit to the old swimming hole, we head for the Ho Chi Minh City Museum.  This used to be the Gia Long Palace, used by South Vietnamese presidents when we lived in Saigon.  This is not the same as the Presidential Palace we had visited yesterday. 

Former Gia Long Palace



 

At the time we lived in Saigon, on November 1, 1963, there was a coup, which ousted then South Vietnamese president Ngo Dinh Diem.  He had lived in the Gia Long Palace, which came under attack during the coup. 

 

A day or two after the coup, we had gone to the palace.  There were South Vietnamese soldiers there, who allowed us to take some souvenirs.  I suppose we technically were looters.  There is a picture displayed in the museum, showing some of the crowd after the 1963 coup.

Picture of crowd after coup of November 1, 1963

 

The current museum contains exhibits, some of which are of ancient Vietnamese history.   As we go through the former palace, we see a humorous sign directing us to other exhibits.   
 

We obey the sign

On the grounds of the museum, there is a fighter plane used by a South Vietnamese pilot to bomb the newer palace right before the war ended in 1975.  The sign in front of the plane indicates the pilot drove it to the palace.  If traffic then was like it is today, he would be better off flying.  

 

Maybe they should have used a pilot instead of a soldier

Our final mission for the day is to cash some traveler checks.  We don’t need the money, but this has become a quest.  Today we have the passports and the original receipt.  We go to the bank that told us we needed these documents.  

The clerk asks Ken to sign a blank piece of paper.  She declares the signature does not match.  Ken produces his Virginia driver’s license, Medicaid card, and US Military ID card, all of which have his signature.  The clerk doesn’t budge in her analysis of the signature. We leave in abject defeat.   

Having completed all our missions for the day, we go back to the hotel and go swimming.

 

Our home away from home

 

 Supper is in the hotel restaurant. In spite of previous warnings, I order a hamburger. It comes with a fried egg on top. Maybe the egg is to disguise the flavor of the meat. The hamburger tastes okay.