Friday March 8 Saigon and Back Home

Today is the last day for our trip.  Our plane isn’t scheduled to leave until 8:30 PM, so we have virtually all day to do whatever we want.  The one thing on Ken’s list is to get pictures of the American Consulate.  The only reason Ken wants a picture is because he was told he couldn’t take any.  Now it has become a challenge.

We see some high rise buildings in the area, and figure one of those will get us a view over the wall.  We go up the elevator to the highest floor in one of the buildings.  There is no good vantage point from this building, so we find another one.

When we get to the top floor of this second building, we do get a view, although there really isn’t anything to see.  We take pictures anyway.

American Consulate grounds

 We also get some panoramic views of the city while we’re up there.

 View of the city

 

Another view of the city

 

Back on the ground, Ken is determined to get a picture of the front of the consulate.  Again, the only reason he wants it is because he was told not to take pictures.  He can be stubborn.

We approach the consulate from a side street with lots of cars parked.  Ken figures this will provide cover, and he gets a picture of the Great Seal above the gate.  He is pleased with himself.

The forbidden picture

After this escapade, we go back to the downtown area and find a restaurant for our last day’s lunch.   We make our way back to the hotel, where we arranged for a late checkout.  We shower and get cleaned up for our long journey home.

Our guide and driver are to pick us up at 5:30.  This concerns me a little as the airline recommends arriving at the airport three hours before the flight. 

We do get picked up on time, but are at the height of rush hour traffic.  Evening rush hour in Saigon is something to behold.  Every square inch of road space and sidewalks is taken up by traffic.  Scooters and motorbikes will swoop in and take any available opening between cars.  What this means is only one car (but a thousand other vehicles) can get through each green light.

To get an idea of rush hour traffic, clik the link below or copy and paste.  This is Youtube video shot by someone about a month before we were there.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MGAkESdKomo&noredirect=1

I express concern about getting to the airport on time.  The only effect this has is to make the driver nervous.  He is an excellent driver, and has the skills and nerves to navigate the traffic.  He does find some alternate routes that are marginally better.

We get to the airport two hours before the flight, and this turns out to be plenty of time.  We get checked in, and then head for the security lines.   

Ken sets off the security check alarm because of his titanium hip.  He gets patted down.  I get stopped by the security agent who tells me I have a pair of scissors in my carry-on luggage.  I tell her I don’t have scissors.  She says she saw them on the image as the bag went through the scanner.

She instructs me to open the bag.  As I’m doing so, it occurs to me the first aid kit my wife Kathie gave me for Christmas might be the culprit.  Sure enough, I pull out the first aid kit, open it, and retrieve a pair of blunt-nosed bandage scissors.

I explain to the agent they have a blunt-nose and are not dangerous.  Smiling, she says, 'But the blade is sharp.'  She then takes her finger and makes a slashing motion on her throat.  Not knowing if she is just illustrating how the scissors could be used as a lethal weapon, or if she is threatening me, I hand over the scissors.

Having made the world safe again, I am allowed to proceed.  This was the 8^th airport screening we had gone through on this trip.  And finally, I was caught.  I almost made it.

Our flight is delayed and is completely full.  This causes us to have to do a repeat marathon through the Dubai airport to make our connection back to Dulles.

We do make the flight.  Ken is in the window seat and I am in the middle one, with a Nepalese man in the aisle seat.  Ken notices a couple of empty aisle seats ahead of us.  He tells me we can grab them after the plane doors are shut.  Unfortunately, someone else grabs one before the doors are shut. 

As soon as the doors are shut, I grab the other empty aisle seat.  What’s nice is the middle seat in this row is empty.  After I leave the middle seat, the Nepalese man moves one of his children from the adjoining set of seats to the one I vacated.  The child apparently had a dirty diaper.  Ken suffers for the entire fourteen and a half hour flight.

We land at Dulles at 8:00 Saturday morning.  Our bags are the first ones off the plane, and we are the first ones through Customs.  We are waved through, and Ken’s friend Nancy picks us up and takes us to Ken’s house.  Thus completes our almost three week journey back to Southeast Asia.  It has been an incredibly fine trip. 

Thursday March 7 Saigon

Today we start at the Ben Thanh Market.  Since we will be leaving tomorrow, we feel the need to get some more souvenirs and gifts for our families.  I am also looking for some food items to bring back. 

In the food section, we come across an interesting brand of coffee.  Not quite sure what it is, we don’t buy it.

Do weasels drink coffee?

After leaving the food area, we go to the jewelry section.  Ken and I both want to get some jade items for our children.  In the area where jade is sold, we observe a sign.  We’re not sure what it means, but think it must be to reassure shoppers. 

We believe it

I pick out a pair of jade earrings for my daughter Jessi.  After bargaining awhile, the merchant accepts my offer, saying I got a good deal because it is her first sale of the day.  I’m satisfied with the deal, but skeptical of her assessment of how great a deal it is.

Ken picks out some items, and starts to bargain.  In the past, he has given in much too soon, so I offer to be his closer.  I try to negotiate, but the merchant won’t budge.  She tells us since I got such a good deal, she can’t afford to be as generous with Ken.  He capitulates and makes the purchase.

As we exit the market, we notice a police motorcycle.  It has a sign in English indicating it is part of a tourist security unit. 

Special unit



The two policemen pose for us on their motorcycle.  We had noticed these police around the city, but were not aware of their role before now.  They must be doing a good job, as we have not had any problems.
 

On patrol

 

There is also a cyclo parked in front of the market.  When we lived in Saigon in the 60s, the cyclo was a major source of public transportation.  The passenger compartment is in front, with the driver pedaling the bicycle behind.  In a front end collision, the driver is protected.  This is not so good for the passengers.  Cyclos are now just used for tourists.

Cyclo



 

One of our major quests today is to find the Cercle Sportif.  When we lived in Saigon, this was the place where American dependants and other foreigners would go for tennis and swimming.  In the tropical climate, swimming was pretty much a daily activity, even during the rainy season.

We look up information about the Cercle Sportif online, and find the address for its current location.  When we arrive at what we believe is the correct address, we find a stagnant pool of water.  At first I believe this is the swimming pool of the Cercle Sportif, but Ken is skeptical.

 

Not the pool (fortunately)

This stagnant pool is in one of the many parks around the city.  This park also has a statue of a Vietnamese soldier from the war.  It appears to be a North Vietnamese soldier.

Statue in park



 

We continue walking until we find the real location of the Cercle Sportif.  It is now called the Worker’s Club.  That’s a good name for a pool and tennis club in a classless communist society.

We understand the complex fell into disrepair after the war, and was neglected for many years.  Now, the tennis courts are in really good shape.

Tennis courts at Worker's Club

 

As we approach the swimming pool area, we notice a sign reading Café Cercle.  At least some of the original name is being retained.  The Café Cercle is a dining area next to the pool.  We are there close to lunch hour, and there are several people dining at the café.

 

Poolside restaurant

 

A Vietnamese man coming from the pool volunteers information indicating the pool is over 100 years old.  We tell him we had been there many years ago, and ask him to take our picture, which he does. 

Ken (on right) and me in front of Worker's Club pool area

 

Up at the pool area, we are pleased to see it is in good condition.  The three level diving platform however does not appear any different than when we were there 48 years ago.

 Diving platform

There are not too many people actually swimming in the pool.  Earlier on our trip, in Vientiane, Laos, our guide had told us about a large swimming complex that was built there.  It ended up going out of business because Southeast Asians, just don’t go swimming for recreation.  This explanation appears to be borne out by the lack of activity in the pool. 

Full length view of the pool 

As we are leaving the Cercle Sportif, we see the old emblem for the club above a doorway. 

Cercle Sportif emblem



After the visit to the old swimming hole, we head for the Ho Chi Minh City Museum.  This used to be the Gia Long Palace, used by South Vietnamese presidents when we lived in Saigon.  This is not the same as the Presidential Palace we had visited yesterday. 

Former Gia Long Palace



 

At the time we lived in Saigon, on November 1, 1963, there was a coup, which ousted then South Vietnamese president Ngo Dinh Diem.  He had lived in the Gia Long Palace, which came under attack during the coup. 

 

A day or two after the coup, we had gone to the palace.  There were South Vietnamese soldiers there, who allowed us to take some souvenirs.  I suppose we technically were looters.  There is a picture displayed in the museum, showing some of the crowd after the 1963 coup.

Picture of crowd after coup of November 1, 1963

 

The current museum contains exhibits, some of which are of ancient Vietnamese history.   As we go through the former palace, we see a humorous sign directing us to other exhibits.   
 

We obey the sign

On the grounds of the museum, there is a fighter plane used by a South Vietnamese pilot to bomb the newer palace right before the war ended in 1975.  The sign in front of the plane indicates the pilot drove it to the palace.  If traffic then was like it is today, he would be better off flying.  

 

Maybe they should have used a pilot instead of a soldier

Our final mission for the day is to cash some traveler checks.  We don’t need the money, but this has become a quest.  Today we have the passports and the original receipt.  We go to the bank that told us we needed these documents.  

The clerk asks Ken to sign a blank piece of paper.  She declares the signature does not match.  Ken produces his Virginia driver’s license, Medicaid card, and US Military ID card, all of which have his signature.  The clerk doesn’t budge in her analysis of the signature. We leave in abject defeat.   

Having completed all our missions for the day, we go back to the hotel and go swimming.

 

Our home away from home

 

 Supper is in the hotel restaurant. In spite of previous warnings, I order a hamburger. It comes with a fried egg on top. Maybe the egg is to disguise the flavor of the meat. The hamburger tastes okay.

Wednesday March 6 Mekong Delta near Saigon

After breakfast, our guide and driver pick us up for the trip to the Mekong delta.  We make our way through the morning traffic, and then head down a reasonably good highway to the village of Cai Be, where we catch our boat.

The boat awaiting us has large, menacing looking eyes painted on the bow.  We are told the eyes are intended to scare off evil spirits and such.



Mekong River excursion boat

There are dwellings built up all along the shore in this area.  There are also warehouses and shops.

Housing along the river

 

Warehouse along the river

 

Shortly into our boat trip, we come across the morning market.  Boats start selling their goods at about 4:00 AM.  Produce sold here is then transported to Saigon to be sold in morning markets.

The boats selling produce all have long poles extending from their decks.  On the poles the produce or merchandise being sold is displayed.  These boats also serve as homes for the market merchants.

Floating market - note poles above boats

 

This boat sells pumpkins

 

Past the market, we stop by a village to have tea and listen to traditional Southern Vietnamese folk music.  We are first entertained by two men.  One is playing a guitar and the other is playing a different stringed instrument.

Musical interlude along Mekong

 

The man playing the guitar is also operating a percussion instrument with his foot.

Foot operated percussion instrument

(this is guitarist on right in previous picture)

 

We listen while two singers perform a bit of musical comedy.  The woman in the song is being pursued by a man who likes his rice wine.

 

Musical story

We look around the village on the way back to the boat.  There is a tree on the ground with a bunch of bananas.  Our guide tells us only one crop comes from a tree.  The tree is then cut down, and another grows in its place.

Banana tree

 

There is also a durian tree at the village.  The guide tells us a bunch of fruit start growing together.

Durian tree with immature fruit

 

Even though several fruits in a bunch get started, only one grows to maturity.

Mature durian

Another fruit tree is the guava.  The guava is said to have a taste between pear and strawberry.  On the tree we pass, there are plastic bags placed over the fruit to keep the insects away.

 Guava

An ornamental flower, called hoa phuong don is also growing.  When the flower is cut, it lasts up to two months.

Hoa phuong don flower

From the village, we arrive at a woman-powered boat to take us in a narrow channel or canal.  The boat driver uses a pair of crossed oars to propel us.

 Woman propelled boat

Along the narrow waterway we pass by a plum tree.

Plum tree

 

There is a boat train heading the opposite direction which passes us.  The lead boat is motorized, and the other boats are attached by ropes.

Boat train to our left

 

We stop at another village to watch the making of coconut candies and puffed rice.  The manufacturing process apparently doesn’t require sanitation rules.  The man making the puffed rice has his cigarette perched in his mouth precariously over the vessel where he is preparing the product.

 

Smoking and making puffed rice

 

The process starts with putting the rice in a vessel and stirring it.
 

The process begins

 

After popping for a few minutes, the finished product magically appears.

Finished product

 

We leave the village, and head to our lunch stop.  There is a nice pond next to the restaurant.

Pond at lunch stop

 

Our lunch today includes something called an elephant ear fish.  The fish is served whole, and we pick out the edible parts.  When we are finished, the fish looks angrier than when we began.

Angry looking lunch

After lunch, we drive back to Saigon.  On the outskirts, we pass through the area known as Cholon.  This is, and always has been, the Chinese area of the city.  When we lived in Saigon, we would venture to this part of town quite often for the markets. 

Cholon section of Saigon

 

We get a good view of the modern Bitexco building as we are driving back to the hotel.  This is the building from which we got some pictures on the observation platform on February 21.

Bitexco building in background

 

After cleaning up at the hotel, we head out to find dinner.  We decide to go to the Vincom Center food court, where there are multiple restaurants on two of the lower levels.  The Korean restaurant is packed.  There is a lot of Korean investment in the city, which probably accounts for the customers in the restaurant.   

Vin Com Center

 

The other restaurants all have customers, but not as many as the Korean one.  We check the menus, and eat at a restaurant serving Vietnamese food.  Most of the clientele in this restaurant appears to be middle class Vietnamese.

After dinner and dessert at a yogurt place, we walk around in the mall.  We see there is even a Disney store.

Disney Store in Vincom Center

 

There are still a lot of people milling around downtown as we make our way back to the hotel.  Ho Chi Minh City is certainly embracing the 21^st century.

Tuesday March 5 Saigon

This is our day for the stroll down memory lane.  The street names have changed, but we are hopeful of finding two of the three houses in which we lived during our stay in the 60s.  We don’t look for the third house, because we don’t remember the address.

When we lived here before, it seemed like a long way between our house on Cong Ly and the downtown area.  But on our way from the airport yesterday, we figured it was walking distance.

Armed with our passports for the attempt to cash traveler checks later, we head out.  Our first stop is to be the house on the street that used to be named Cong Ly.  We make our way through the morning traffic.

Morning traffic

Because the numbers have not changed, we find our address, 193/6A.  Our house is now an import company. 

 Sign on gate of our former house

The security guards at the house don’t mind us taking pictures, so we get several.

Our former house

 

As we head to our next destination, we get a good glimpse of modern day Ho Chi Minh City’s electric infrastructure.  We have been told that if someone loses power, they just string another line.  It’s certainly less trouble than figuring out which wire is the problem. 

Keeping the lights on?

Our next quest is to find our house on the street that used to be called Tu Duc.  When we lived there, it was close to the radio station.  Because of the location, any time there was a coup, we would get an early warning, as the radio station was the first target to be seized.

We find a TV tower, and assume this is the old radio station.  After wandering aimlessly, we realize the TV tower is not where the radio station used to be.

Finally, we find the radio station and start going up and down the streets in the area.  We find a street with the right numbering system for our old house.  When we get to the correct address, there is a large building.  Our house has been replaced.

Office building that replaced our house

 

Next door to the building with our old address, is a house.  This is the same house which was next to the one in which we lived.  So we know we have found the right place.

The house next door - looks familiar

 

We start back in the general direction of downtown, looking for a place to eat.  We find a local restaurant where we get a good Vietnamese style lunch.  As we continue our journey, we pass a KFC. 

Encroaching American culture

 

Another of our memory lane targets is the US Consulate.  Ken thinks this is the location of the US Embassy, built after the one he had worked in was bombed. 

We find the consulate, but it is surrounded by a high wall.  We don’t get a view of anything beyond the wall.  I get a picture of the consulate from the outside. 

 

American Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City

 

Ken tries to get a picture, but is waved off by a security guard.  This just inspires him to try to get a picture, which he does two days later.

Since we have found our old houses and the consulate, we next head to the presidential palace, which is now a museum.

Former South Vietnamese Presidential Palace

 

We get our tickets, and go in.  We arrive just in time for a tour.  The guide shows us several of the rooms in the palace.

Old Presidential Office

 

Reception Room - considered most beautiful room in palace

 

One of the rooms we see is the war room, used by South Vietnamese presidents during the war.   Among the relics in the war room is an old American issue government desk.

 War Room with US Government surplus desk

On the grounds of the palace are two tanks.  These are similar to the ones that arrived at the palace on April 30, 1975, thus ending the Vietnam war.

Tank on display

 

After our visit to the palace, we head once more to a bank to cash traveler checks.  At the bank, after presenting his passport, the clerk asks Ken to sign a blank piece of paper.  She declares the signature does not match the one on the traveler checks.  Another bank employee thinks the signatures match, but he is overruled.

The clerks suggest we try another bank.  At the other bank, we are told they need the purchase receipt for the traveler checks, in addition to the passport.  We don’t have that with us.  So, we do the ATM thing, and become rich once more. 

We have dinner that night at an outdoor Vietnamese BBQ restaurant.  There is a propane cooking surface in the middle of the table, and we cook our own meal.  

Ken at dinner

 

After dinner, we go downtown.  There is a modern building there called Vincom Center. There is a sign indicating there is a mall here, so we go inside.

The mall is multi-story and contains many high end stores.  They have Gucci, Armani, and Pierre Cardin, just to name a few.  With all this capitalist decadence, Ho Chi Minh must be spinning in his mausoleum.  There are not a lot of people shopping, but several families seem to be there to ride the escalators.

On two of the lower levels there are multiple restaurants.  There is an ice cream shop called Bud's Ice Cream of San Francisco, and we get dessert there. 

Wandering around some more at the mall, we find where all the scooters and motor bikes go during the day.  There are two or three parking levels below the mall.  They are filled.

 

After our mall excursion, we go back to the hotel.