Sunday, March 31, 2013

Sunday March 3 Bolaven Plateau near Pakse, Laos

Today we head for the Bolaven Plateau.  This is the area we had seen from the air in 1968 with the magnificent waterfalls.  For 45 years, we have waited to see this from the ground, and we are not disappointed.

The Bolaven Plateau is an area where coffee is grown in Laos.  On the way there, we pass a large factory for processing coffee.  It is owned by a Vietnamese woman, who also owns a lot of property in Pakse. The factory hires predominantly Vietnamese workers, and has housing for the employees on the property. 

We arrive at the site of the Tad Fane Waterfall.  After a short walk, we get a sense of déjà vu.  The waterfall is one we had seen from the air 45 years earlier. 



Tad Fane Waterfall Bolaven Plateau Laos

It is 120 meters (about 400 feet).  There are actually twin falls here. 


Another view of Tad Fane


During the Vietnam War, there was heavy bombing in this area.  The Ho Chi Minh trail, used by the North Vietnamese to move supplies and troops to South Vietnam, ran through here.  We see evidence of the bombing in the form of craters. 

Bomb crater at falls
On the way back to the car from the falls, we observe a large spider in its web.  The spider is about six inches long.  Just about everything grows bigger here






Not so itsy-bitsy spider
At our next stop, we walk through a coffee plantation on our way to another spectacular waterfall.  Coffee is harvested in December and January.  We pass some beans drying on the ground. 

Coffee beans drying
Even though we are there after the harvest, there are still some ripe beans in some of the trees. 

Ripe coffee beans
We also pass a flowering coffee tree.


Flowering coffee tree

Among the flowers we see on the way is the Lapsura, also known as the Speaker Flower.  This is a poisonous plant.  People are sometimes poisoned by touching the flower, and then eating with their hands without washing first.


 Lapsura (Speaker flower)

Poinsettieas are on the path, too.


Poinsettieas

After hiking for some distance through the coffee plantation and the jungle, we arrive at the site of the Tham Cham Pee Waterfall.  At the top of the path leading down to the falls, we are greeted by a sign which reads ‘Good luck’.  We’re not quite sure how to take this.

Ominous sign?

There are two ways down to the falls.  One is a rather steep ladder type affair.  The other is a stairway with a more gradual descent.  Neither of these would be ADA approved for persons with disabilities.


The steep route 

We do have good luck, and navigate down by the less steep route.  This waterfall is wider than the Tad Fane falls, but is not as big a drop. 


Tham Cham Pee waterfall

We are the only visitors there. 



Ken (on right) and me at the falls

In front of the falls, there is a raft tied up to a small footbridge.  A rope goes from the bridge to somewhere under the falls.  We hop on the raft, and our guide pulls us along the rope until we are near the falls.  We are not dressed for swimming, so we don’t actually go under the falls. 

Our guide on raft

 Area at the falls

Area at the falls

After a leisurely visit, we head back up, where our car is now waiting for us.

View of the falls from top of path

On the way back to Pakse, we stop at a village.  There are men making knives for cutting coffee trees.  What’s interesting about the process is they use old artillery shells for the base where they pound the metal.

Making knife, using artillery shell for pounding surface
Back at Pakse, our guide takes us to the Mekong Restaurant for lunch.  We don’t tell him we had shoe leather there the night before.  Our lunch, with no beef, is delicious. .

In the afternoon, our guide takes us to the temple where he studied when he was a Buddhist monk for eight years.  At the temple, we get another unexpected pleasant surprise.

Right after our car pulls into the temple area, several other vehicles filled with local people also arrive.  It turns out there is to be a ceremony for some men who are becoming Buddhist monks.  The people get out of their cars, and a procession begins.  The procession is led by a man banging a gong, and another beating a drum.

Leading the procession
The monks-to-be are dressed in white robes, and they follow the percussion section. 

Monks in front of procession
The crowd, all in a festive mood, follows along.  They walk three times around the temple.  Some of the crowd throws chrysanthemums, and those further back pick them up.  Our guide tells us there is money placed in the flowers.




                                                                 Part of crowd at ceremony

After the pleasant interlude at the temple, we wander down to the market.  
 Delivery truck at market area
 Food court at market area
By now it’s late afternoon, so we go back to the hotel for a swim. 
Pool at Champasak Grand Hotel
Dinner is at the hotel that evening.  There are two restaruants at the hotel.  I check the menu for the outside restaurant, which has some unusual items.  We decide not to eat there.
 Are duck mouths 'quackers'?
Not sure we want pork appendix

This has been a really good day.

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