Thursday February 28 Pakse, Laos

The travel alarm wakes us up at 4:00 AM, and we have some instant coffee.  It actually tastes pretty good.  After getting ready, we get our wake-up call from the hotel about 5:00 AM.  We're glad we have the travel alarm.

The hotel has packed us a breakfast which we eat in the lobby while waiting for our guide and driver to take us to the airport. 

Lao Airlines plane to Pakse

At the airport, Ken sets off the security check alarm because of his titanium hip.  He gets patted down.  I make it through okay, even though I apparently have a lethal weapon in my carry-on luggage.

 

Pakse Airport

We are met in Pakse by a driver who takes us to the downtown local market area where we wait for the bus that will take us to the Pha Pheng Waterfall. 

Orchids at the bus stop

While waiting, Ken and I observe the tuk-tuks here.  They differ from ones we have seen previously, as they are essentially a motorcycle with a side-car.  In the other places in Laos, the passengers ride in back.

Pakse version of tuk-tuk

 
We also get a glimpse of downtown morning life in Pakse.
 

Portable Restaurant in Pakse

The bus is mostly full by the time it gets to the market area where we are waiting.  We are forced to sit in a seat with a wheel well on the floor where we might otherwise put our feet.
 

Our bus

The only people not ready for the bus are a couple who are staying in the hotel by the bus stop.  Their itinerary says the bus will leave a half hour later, and they refuse to board before the appointed time.  So we all wait.

Most of the passengers on the bus are French speaking. Ken and I, along with a German couple, are the English speakers. There is an English speaking guide for the four of us, and a French speaker for the rest. 

The bus travels along Highway 13 in Laos.  This is the major north-south route in the country and follows the Mekong River for the most part.  Prior to improvements on this highway, around the year 2000, the Mekong River was the main artery for transportation.  Highway 13 serves the purpose now.

Along the way, we enjoy views of the countryside. We notice that many of the huts have satellite dishes. This seems to be the norm in all the places we have been on this trip. That, and the availability of cell phone service, are two indications of the intrusion of the modern world.

Along Highway 13 in Laos -

of course there is satellite dish

The highway will not be mistaken for a major American road.  The road is somewhat narrow, and has no shoulders.  Merchants stop along the road to unload their goods, forcing other drivers to take their chances in passing, often without a good line of sight.  In addition, there are pedal powered vehicles, small motor scooters, cars, trucks, and buses, all moving at varying speeds.
 

The bus is supposedly air-conditioned, but we do not feel much cool air on this three hour ride.  When we are half-way to the falls, we stop at a rest area, which has a snack shop, restrooms, and souvenirs.  Kind of like a Casey’s.  Back on the bus, we continue the uncomfortable trip to the falls. 

It is a short walk to the waterfall from where the bus parks. 
 

Sign on path to the Khone Pha Pheng Waterfall

Pha Pheng waterfall is known as the ‘Niagara of the East’.  The falls are rather impressive and are about 50 feet high in places. 
 

View of the waterfall

When the French originally arrived in Indochina (Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam), they had hopes of using the Mekong river as a trade route from China down through Vietnam.  The Pha Pheng falls are a main reason this was not possible.

 

 Another view of the waterfall

From the falls, we head to Xieng Di village for lunch.  At the restaurant, I ask if I may buy the menu.  The reason I ask is my wife Kathie requested I bring her a menu with English and the local language.  This menu fits the bill as it is laminated, with entries on both sides.  The server doesn't think I’m serious.  I am.  They finally agree to sell me the menu for $5.00, which makes this one of the more expensive souvenirs from this trip.

Xieng Di is a fishing village where we board small boats for a visit to Khone Island.  The small boats are necessary because this is the dry season, and the river is not high enough at this point for the larger boat we will be taking later.
 

 Our boats await

There are two small boats waiting for us.  There are a total of 23 people for the boats.  There are a total of 21 seats on the boats.  Somebody didn’t count right.  Ken and I end up sitting on the railing of the boat.  Like others we’ve taken, this boat wouldn’t pass Coast Guard inspection.  Fortunately, this part of the journey is only about 45 minutes.

 

Ken perched on boat railing

We stop at Khone Island to see remnants of the old French railway.  The tracks are being used as a fence by the villagers.  There are also other exhibits from the French colonial days. 

Fence using old railroad tracks

We also see village life on Khone Island.

Making fishnets on Khone Island

There are other small boats waiting for us at Khone Island. These boats have enough seats for all.  It takes another couple of hours to reach our cruise boat, the Vat Phou.  There are numerous small islands in the Mekong on this part of the river.  This is called the 4,000 Islands.  We didn't count them all. 
 

 4,000 Islands area

We pass many fishing boats, with fishermen casting their nets into the Mekong. Catfish and carp are the two main species being fished.  

 Fishing on the Mekong

 

Casting a net

Fish baskets along the shore

 

Along the shore, we see water buffalo and egrets.  The egrets take care of the insects on the water buffalo.  According to our guide, egrets are not considered food as they just don’t taste good.  The birds probably appreciate it.  

Water Buffalo (without egrets) on shore along Mekong

The sun begins to set over the Mekong.  The fishermen haul in their nets and start heading for home. 

Sun setting on the Mekong River in Laos

We reach Khong Island where the Vat Phou boat awaits us.  Ken had spent some time on Khong Island in 1968.  He worked at a hospital on the island.  Unfortunately, we don’t have time to wander around on shore there.

 

Vat Phou Cruise Boat

We are shown to our cabin on the boat.  Luckily for us, we get one of the two cabins on the upper deck.  This cabin has its own air conditioning controls.  Since it’s hot and humid, we are grateful for this perk.

In the dining room, we are seated with our English speaking German friends.  A Swiss gentleman asks to join our table, as he is not too happy with one of the men at his table.  It seems the man with whom this Swiss is upset is the one who caused us to depart late from Pakse to the waterfall.  What makes things worse is the man is unapologetic.

After dinner, we get settled in our cabin, which is rather small.  There is just enough room for the two beds and a desk. 

Ken in bed on Vat Phou Cruise Boat



There is also a small bathroom in the cabin.  Forgetting to check for a hair dryer, we go to bed.