Tuesday February 26 Near Luang Prabang, Laos

Today, after breakfast, we head to another Hmong village, Ban Khia Luang.  While driving to the village, our guide tells us a bit about current day Laos.  The economy is heavily dependent on imports, with just 10% being exports.  The primary export is hydro-electric power to Thailand and China. 

Vietnam and Cambodia are not happy with some of the current and proposed dams along the Mekong.  Both countries are downstream from Laos.  The displeasure of the other countries is similar to that of downstream states along the Missouri River in the US.

Another bit of information we are given relates to the reason so few Lao own cars.  Interest rates for auto loans are high, so those who wish to own cars save in order to pay cash.  Our guide tells us 40% of the population own cars, but that seems rather high based on traffic along the roads.  The 40% figure might apply to all motor vehicle ownership, not just cars.

On the way to our morning destination, we stop to buy some composition books and pencils to give to the children attending the village school.  The last part of the road to the village is along a dirt road undergoing construction.  OSHA would not approve the lack of safety measures in the construction process.  Drivers have to figure out on their own the best way to navigate through the construction zone.

We wander through the village, which is along the river. 

Villagers resting and working at Ban Khia Luang village

 

Children at play

 

 Village scene

 Chicken coop

 Village scene - satellite dish at far left
 

Working in village

 

We visit the temple before we head to the school. 

Temple Drum

In the school, we visit with the primary grade students.  They all say their ABCs for us in English.  Then one boy counts to 10, also in English.  Many schools in Laos don’t teach foreign language to the younger students, but this one does.

Counting to 10 in English

 

We hand each child a composition book and pencil.  They are extremely courteous and are grateful to receive the supplies.  I don’t think they would have been any more appreciative if we had given them each an iPad.

 

Ken and me in the back of the class



 

Our guide suggests we sing a song for the students. The guide has never heard us sing. We sing ‘Mary Had a Little Lamb.’ None of the children seem to object to our efforts to sing a song. What makes this a particularly satisfying experience is our knowledge of the suffering the Hmong have endured in Laos. Yet, these children seem to be genuinely happy.

On the school playground

We travel back on the dirt road under construction.  This time, they are working on a cliff directly next to the road.  On the other side of the road is a deep drop off to the river.  I have visions of the dirt cliff coming down on our car and pushing it over into the river.  After a 10 minute wait, we are able to get through this construction and head to the Nam Ou River.

Hermit's Hand Cactus on path to the boat

A boat awaits us at the Nam Ou River. 

Boat to take us to Pak Ou Caves

 

We board the boat and head for the Pak Ou caves located along the Mekong.  The Nam Ou is a tributary to the Mekong.  Even though it is the dry season, the jungle along the river is lush and green. 

 

 Scenery on the way to Pak Ou Caves

On the way to the caves

At one point along the shore, we see peanuts being grown.

Peanuts being grown along the shore

 

As we approach the caves, which are located at the confluence of the Nam Ou and Mekong Rivers, we begin to see large rock outcroppings.  This is near where the caves are located. 

 Cliff along the way to Pak Ou Cave

 More interesting formations

 Approaching the cave

 

Our first stop is the temple, built in 1353.

Temple at Pak Ou Cave

 

After the temple, we visit the lower cave, and climb the steps to the upper one. Both caves have Buddha figures, some of which date back for centuries.  People have used the caves for centuries to place Buddha figures.  At one point, there were an estimated 4,500 figures in the caves.  Looting has reduced the number of figures, and many others have been moved for safekeeping. 

Lower Cave

 

On the way back down, I decide a restroom break is warranted.  I learn capitalism has taken hold even in this remote location.  There is a sign indicating the facility has a pay toilet.  I pay the approximately 40 cent charge to use the rather primitive privy.

 3,000 kip (about 40 cents) for toilet

What you get for 40 cents 

 

As we make our way back on the river, we stop by a village where rice wine is being made.  The process looks similar to what we see of moonshine operations in this county.  Ken is brave enough to sample the produce.  He isn’t right again for several minutes.

Rice wine making 

Jack Fruit and orchids in village

The other stop on the way back is to a village where handicrafts are made.  We were at first puzzled as we thought the guide had said this was a ‘handicapped’ village, when in fact he had said it was a ‘handicraft’ village.  All the workers seemed to be able bodied, and when we observed the making of rice paper and other items, we finally realized what the guide had said.

House at village - old TV in front room, flat screen in back on right

 Along the river

 Scenery along the river

Back in Luang Prabang, we kill time until heading for the airport for the flight to Vientiane on Lao Airlines.  At the airport, Ken sets off the security check alarm because of his titanium hip.  He gets wanded.  I make it through okay, even though I apparently have a lethal weapon in my carry-on luggage. 

 
We arrive safely in Vientiane about 8:00 PM local time.  We check into the Green Park Hotel.  We sleep well after finding there is a hair dryer in the room.